Futbol Madness in Madrid

 After my son convinced my mother to buy a third futbol jersey, I told them we needed to leave to get on the train over two hours early.   Little did we realize that it took over an hour to board a Spanish train, so thank goodness we made it on time for the train to Madrid from Barcelona.

During the train ride, I was determined to find the elusive futbol tickets for a Real Madrid game that night but it was for the EU Champions League.  I never dreamed I could get tickets to this type of event, but last minute there were two lower level seats to the game!  And they were scheduled to play AC Milan, which has the American team Captain Christian Pulisic. I scooped up the tickets and quickly realized the game started at 9pm.  I knew my son's excitement would keep me awake.   And a year later, he would finally get to see Mbappe play soccer.

We rolled into Madrid and literally to the main city square where our apartment was waiting.   The apartment was spacious, modern but also five and a half flights up stairs with no elevator.  We had to start getting ready for the game and learning the metro while the others go to stroll and eat a multicourse dinner.   We got to the soccer stadium an hour before they let any one in the gates, with zero belongings because of tight security. (Peep the architectural marvels of Kio Towers)  However, we were more than entertained as we watched full riot police allow ten AC Milan spectators in at a time while they sang, chanted and dressed in all Italian black to enter the game gates.  I have never seen such a sight.    We then watched a huge futbol upset, with a win by AC Milan over Real Madrid.   

After an exhausting night, we had our first slate of things to see in Madrid.   We visited the Mercado de San Miguel food market, where churros were a big hit. I had to rally to get up to go to the Changing of the Guard at the Royal Palace.   However, without an announcement, the Changing of the Guard was cancelled as the historic floods in Vallencia meant they cancelled all royal events for the entire month.  I quickly talked the guard into letting us use our reserved palace tour tickets two hours early and got to tour the palace.  My daughter very much enjoyed seeing a real life palace and was disappointed not to have met the two royal daughters.  After this, we ventured over to the museum.   We then walked around Plaza Mayor, the city's oldest main square, and ate lunch sitting on the square.    I then took my mother to see in the world's oldest restaurant of Sobrino de Botin, from 1725.   I also took her by where Hotel Florida would have been had it survived the Spanish Civil War.   At this point, the children crashed, so I drug only Jordan out from the main city to a suburb.   I wanted to see Templo de Debod which is a 2000 BC Ancient Egyptian temple that was moved from Aswan as a gift to the Spanish for help with the Suez canal.   We ate a wonderful dinner and stopped by a few Irish pubs.  We also found a wine bar, which we would visit each night of the trip.

On Friday, much to no one's surprise, Jordan opted out of seeing one of the world's top five art museums - in favor of the playgound with the little one who learned they have playgrounds in Spain too.  So with a room by room itinerary in hand, I toured my son and mother around the Prado.  It was wonderful.  I was excited to see Goya and his dark paints lived up to the hype.  I was not sure I was old enough to experience some of these paintings and I see why some believe they are supernatural.   My mother stood at the Bosch painting for over ten minutes.  Las Meninas was also a favorite. I appreciate Spanish artists a bit more now.  After the first art museum, my son wanted to be rescued so Jordan met us and took the children to their favorite meal of the entire trip where they got chicken nuggets...  My mother was brave enough to continue to the Reina Sofia with me, but only after a nice lunch.  We saw every item in the museum, but we did really appreciate the art around the Spanish Civil War including Guernica by Picasso.   We taxied back, including an underground road underneath the Plaza Mayor, and enjoyed the night.  

On Saturday, I was determined to see what I wanted to see more than art - a map.  But this is not any regular old map, it is the FIRST map in the world depicting North America.  It was created by Juan de La Cosa, who was on a few voyages to the Americas, including the first with Columbus.  This map is located at the underappreciated Naval Museum.   Jordan appreciated the museum, as he reminded us Spain was a naval power for centuries.   We then went to the city's version of central park, Reitro Park.  The Park is massive and we only got to see parts, as it was a busy time for families.  We then showed my mother while you should always choose an authentic Irish Pub for a meal abroad.   We wondered around the city for the afternoon.   On our last day, we went to a Spanish-American hybrid brunch.  Later than day, we took our son to a sports bar that showed the Real Madrid game.   He now understands why sports bars exist and really enjoyed cheering with a group of local fans during the game.   Luckily Read Madrid won that game, so it was fun.

On Monday, we ventured over an hour to the airport, sat in the fancy lounge, got on the airport playground for a bit and boarded our flight with amazing seats again.   We survived our first international family trip and look forward to many more!

PS) All my daughter remembers about Spain is playgrounds, the palace, "puppers" and (h)airplanes.   I would not recommend thinking a four year old will retain any culture experiences.

Toledo: where medieval meets magical AND too many steps

 If I had to go back to Spain, I really wanted to get out of the major cities.  I learned Toledo was a 35 minute train ride from Madrid, and I knew that was where I would spend a day.   I was excited, as I had heard only good things about this medieval town.  The train ride was easy but it was absolutely full both ways.   We exited the small station and quickly realized there were no signs and literally just two major hills (small mountains) in front of us.   We started walking up a large hill and realized it was just beginning.   We stopped to take pictures at the city gate.   We then found the escalators to enter town.  No research had prepared me for the reality that this was an extremely active town with a lot of cars and trucks despite the tiny winding roads, nor did it prepare me that every other step was on cobblestones and up/down hill.   With the traffic, almost not walking paths, and severe hills the walking was actually quite difficult - and here I brought my small children and my mother.   One hour into the trip, I actually asked if we wanted to leave.   However, they soldiered on.    

We visited the still standing small Mosque (from the Islamic occupation of Spain) at one corner of the city and made to the center to stop for a snack.    We then walked over to city hall on our way to the main Cathedral.  This Cathedral began construction in the 1200s and was a religious site of worship for centuries before.   It had amazing paintings, treasures, gilded altarpieces and was large.  I couldn't help but to think that this place played a large role in the Inquisition as I walked the halls.   During this tour, my daughter and husband sat outside.  Again, this was a common theme of the trip and I secretly think Jordan loves an excuse not to see one more religious institution.   She danced the entire time to a violin player.   Loads of people stopped to speak to her in various languages and luckily this helped the violin player to increase tips.

After the Cathedral, we went to see the oldest surviving synagogue in the European Union.   The last church we visited was nice, but is known for its entrance having a painting by El Greco.  The painting was on an entire wall and due to simplicity of the church otherwise was moving.   

We finally found lunch on a big square and ate while locals lingered over their late lunch, cats sauntered around asking for scraps and I spoke my broken Spanish to get our order.  I did buy some marzipan as a souvenir as it originated in this town. 

We had to walk almost two miles back to the train station in a hurry, as we got the last four train tickets out of the city that afternoon.  We made it back to Madrid in one piece, but with extra soreness.  We decided to stick to other walled towns in our future.

Back in Barcelona - with ExtraS

 I did not plan to ever return to Barcelona.  Sure, it's a cosmopolitan city with great art, food, and vibe - but I spent a week here in 2016 and saw all I needed to see.  Well, insert my futbol loving son who decided years ago this was his futbol club.  La Liga, really?  I blame us purchasing a counterfeit Messi jersey for him in 2016 as his only souvenir when we returned from our first trip to Spain.  

As we ended his first EU trip in 2023, Jordan made a rule he would not return to Europe for more than a week without our daughter.   The idea of bringing our daughter across the pond intimated even me. However, I had promised my son for over a year that he could see Mbappe.  Mbappe was now under contract to Real Madrid futbol club in Spain, which did align with my goal of art seeing at the Prado.   After some research, I realized we could see the Barcelona and Real Madrid futbol clubs in a single trip during school holidays in November.   So all this and one cheap flight later is how we ended up in Spain for 10 days with ourselves, our two children, and my mother.

We took an overnight flight to Madrid from CLT.  We were all nervous for our daughter's first overnight flight and my mother's first in decades.  However, our luck stayed so we got two front row seats and an entire half row for my daughter and Jordan.  Her excitement ran out and she crashed asleep for the entire flight after one hour.   We landed in Madrid, and after the world's longest walk to Customs, we were able to get an Uber to Madrid's interesting train station.

After a three hour train ride, we were in Barcelona.   The first class experience on Spain's train line was good, but pales in comparison to the rest of the EU.  However, we did enjoy the train station club which is a nice touch.   My least favorite thing traveling with children is how Western European hotel rooms require a suite for parties of more than 2 or 3.   So due to this and traveling with my mother, we checked into the luxurious Le Meriden located on La Rambla.   The hotel was very nice and the location was perfect.

We had to hustle, as we had reservations at Hard Rock and more importantly the Picasso Museum.   After lunch, I toured my mother and son around the historical portion of Barcelona.  I made sure they understood the significance of standing where Columbus left to find the Americas.   My second time around, I enjoyed the Picasso museum much more.   My appreciation for his vast range of art forms has grown.   We then had McDonalds, as I literally had not had cheeseburger from McDonalds in eight years!  (Thank you EU for "sin gluten"!)  

The next day, I wanted to recreate my favorite photo from 2016 with my children.  It was not supposed to rain this day, but we got caught in the worst  rain that had hit the city in ten years.   Jordan had not packed our rain coats, so three of us were soaked.   However, even in the rain, we re-created the photo at the Olympic site.   Even in the rain, the city's main square was more beautiful then ever.

We then split-up - which will become a common theme this trip - so I could go see more art. The only thing I did not do in Barcelona was go see the MNAC, the city's main art museum.  My mother and I saw Romanesque art, coins, modern Spanish art and other items.   The kids went to dry off and then took a bus with Jordan to stick their feet in the Mediterranean sea, and get french fries and gelato.

The big part of the day was to see the Barcelona futbol club.   By 3pm, we were back up the city square stairs and hiking to the stadium.   It was amazing to see this club up close, as their stadium is being renovated and they currently play in the 1926 Olympic stadium.  Barcelona won, but I only watched half of the game, as I could not take my eyes off my son being so happy to cheer this team on in person. (And yes, my daughter is wearing that same Messi jersey from 2016 in this picture below.)

The next day, I was determined to show my family why Gaudi lives up to the hype.  I had coveted reservations for Park Guell.   We took another route to the Park and literally climbed up hilly, old city stairs for over half a mile and half an hour.  And by the time we checked into the park, hurricane level rains hit the city.  As we were at the top of the city, regardless of the rain gear, we were soaked and could not see five feet in front of us.  At this point, no one can appreciate the tile work and the city views.   We waited out the worst of the rain and marched down the big hill to the bus stop.  We crammed ourselves on a bus back to the hotel in the ripping rain.

We tried to reset, but only a few of us made it to the second stop of the day at Sagrada Familia.  It still is quite impressive and I was able to notice a lot of updates in the nine years.   Luckily across the street was the temporary place for the Barcelona futbol club trophy, which we stopped to see.    We then paid for a taxi to go see the main shopping street of Passeig de Gracia.   Here, in the sunshine, I was able to show off a few houses designed by Gaudi, in between some shopping.

At this point, we were all exhausted and looked forward to our next city of  Madrid.   I was a bit scared to take my entire family to a city I have not been before, but we all know that never would stop me....