Sunday, April 30, 2017

Caesar Shuffle -or at Lauren's pace the Caesar jog

Ancient Rome.  Today was our chance to experience it.  My favorite travel writer (Rick Steves -blog readers you know this!) calls the trek around this part of Ancient Rome the Caesar Shuffle because you Shuffle around with other people from one site to the next across the old city ruins to see it all.  However; we did these sites at record pace!  

We got up early enough to be the first into the Coliseum.  The vastness + age was hard to imagine, even being there!  It feels odd to celebrate this beautiful place, as it was primarily used in brutal ways. 






Outside the Coliseum is the Arch of Constantine from around 315 AD.  He was the Emperor who legalized Christianity for the Empire.  


Then we ventured up Palentine Hill, where the emperors and wealthy of Rome placed their palaces for centuries.  It was amazing to see what they could build into one of Rome's seven hills.  



From the edge of the raised palace, we could even view Circus Maximus.  This race track in Ancient Rome was specifically for horses & chariots.  


From the hill we could look down into the Roman Forum.  




The Roman Forum was like no other place I have been.  You could see the ruins of the Roman Senate steps (white marble), the various columns of churches & building and so much more.  We have both struggled to summarize it & were both in awe of this area.  




After the Forum, we walked along the old street to see more ruins & the remains of Trajan's (an emperor) market / offices.  At the end of this was Trajan's Column depicting his victory in various wars around 200 AD.   


We did so well on time that I allowed us a break for lunch at an Irish Pub. I of course ordered a Caesar Salad to stay in theme.  It was a nice rest.





Then we went back to what I am deeming the largest 'fancy' building I have ever seen.  The Altar of the Fatherland is a very large, white marble building celebrating the unification of Italy.  We will post more on it later....



After this we went to the Basilica di Santa Maria in Ara Coeli.  



And the Capital Hill Piazza designed by Michelangelo.  He designed it to place the museum.


This Piazza houses the Capitaline Museums.  This was the first public museum in the world, dating back to around 1500.  The museum houses many statues, artifacts and has rooms showing the Roman Forum ruins / original building.  I loved the statue of Marcus Aurelius.  And the view of the Roman Forum.




To get a full view of the ancient city, I broke from the Caesar Shuffle.  I took us to one more spot.  And on the way stumbled onto a church - Basilica de Saint Andrea de Valle.



We had to end our day at the outskirts of Ancient Rome, Campo de Fioro.  This was the original marshland & end of the city.  I wanted to ensure I saw all of the ancient city!  It truly was large. Now it is a pleasant, lively city square.  We got there in time to view the market.  And then enjoy some beers at Roma Beer Company & dinner at a nice place on another corner of the square.  




After the market packed up, I watched the city workers clean the square for almost two hours.  They are not helping the stereotype about the Italian way to 'work.'



We figured out how to use the bus, so we didn't have to walk any more.  




Saturday, April 29, 2017

Day duex part duex

After the Vatican City morning - which seemed like an entire day - we ventured around the outskirts of the center of the (ancient) city.


We traveled around the Trastevere neighborhood to see one of the original hills (& churches).  This hill was where St. Paul was crucified.  



Also, we went to the first church dedicated to Mary - Santa Maria in Trastevere.  The gold mosaic center for the naive is breathtaking!



Then we ventured to a favorite Roman church, Saint Cecilia in Trastevere.  She (and her husband) were persecuted and died for their religion.  She was sainted and Romans love her.  This was a very peaceful place.


But we had to stop for a drink once in a while because this day was a lot.

After that, I felt we could fit more into the day.  (Jordan points out here this fascinates him, as I have not slept for two days & am a bit under the weather.  However, I am in Rome where people have suffered much worse over the centuries.). 

We ventured once again across the Tiber River to the Aventine neighborhood.  We went to see the Basilica di Santa Maria in Cosmedin.  This church began in the 700s.   In the portico of the church, on the north side, can be found La Bocca della Verità, an ancient sculpture thought to be a drain covering. A legend states that, if a person places his hand inside the mouth ("bocca") and then swears falsely, the mouth will close and sever the hand. It was made famous to Americans in the movie Roman Holiday.   The line was an hour to put your hand in the Mouth of Truth, but here is a picture of the statue. Also, this old church even houses the skull of Saint Valentine.  So yay for love & Audrey Hepburn?!



We walked across the street to see the two oldest temples left in one piece in Rome.  The temples were built for the Sea God (Portuno) & Hercules.   


Then Jordan reluctantly climbed the famous Aventine hill.  He only agreed as he wanted to see the hill that was the walk the non-Romans used to do to enter the city.  We went to see the view of the city.  


On the same hill is a keyhole to see the view of Saint Peter's dome.   This place is centered around three states -the Knights of Malta, Italy & Vatican - so we wanted to add another recognized nation to our list of travels. It was neat (thanks to Sara for the recommendation!)



We even saw some great ruins in this neighborhood. 


After this eleven miles of walking, even I agreed to take a cab to a nice pub!  (In my defense on the pub, I have to eat Italian food for 11 days so it's ok!).  We have one more morning to wake up early, because the Coliseum is calling my name!!